Fold-over collar



Jan. 10, 192 8.

J. HESS FOLD OVER COLLAR Filed Nov.29, 1922 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Jan. 10, 1928.

1,655,765 J. w. HESS FOLD ovsn COLLAR v Filed Nov. 29, 1922 s Sheets-Sheet 2 jwevifior: g 8573370 262775 3.;

Jan. 10, 1928:

. J. w. HESS FOLD OVER COLLAR Filed Now/.29, 1922 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 be considered p i v- Patented Jan. 10, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

:17.1? "WILLIAIVI OF KITCHEHER, ONTARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOR- TO CLUETT, PEA- BODY & GOIVIPANY, 1130, OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

FOLD-OVER COLLAR.

Application filed. November 29, 1922.

This invention relates to improvements in fold-over collars and in the method of manufacturing such collars. The invention comprises a. collar containing conjoined pieces of material enough for wear unstarchd or lightly starched and adapted to hold its shape however laundered or finished, and having a. top and band of the same or of ditt'erent materials, and includes a. method of manufacture characterized by economic simplicity.

The invention provides for the manufacture by a few simple operations of a finished collar consisting of two principal parts, one forming the top and the other the band. The fabric or fabrics from which the parts are cut may be relatively thick and heavy, or include a relatively heavy inherently stint layer of fabric. Both parts may be cut at the same time from the same piece or superposed pieces of material with a minimum of waste and a maximum of accuracy in the fitting of the parts together. One advantage of the invention is to enable a collar to be produced from part-blanks having edges of like but respectively opposite curvature, such as blanks separated by a. single linear cut from the same pi ce of material. and whether made from the sameor different pieces of fabric, having common or inter fitting curved edges to be broughttogether on assembly of the collar. This line of assembled edges may define in general the usual curvedfold line of the collar, and provides a. joint giving the appropriate form or set. for such collars. But the invention includes and permits the use, if desired, of relatively coarse and inexpensive material for the band of the collar where stillness is desirable, and fabric of liner or more flexible texture for the top. where appearance must Th fabrics use may be any of the desirable textile or other fabrics, either plain or patterned. preferred for use in a collar.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate an embodiment of the article of the invention, and stages of its manufacture,

Figure l is a perspective view of a completed collar;

A Figure 2 shows in elevation blanks comprising he principal parts from which the collar is constructed, the irregularly curved outer edge of the top part and the substan- Serial No. 603,981.

tially str ig it lower edge of the band part being shown as'finished by binding;

Figure 3 is an enlarged elevation of one end of the blank for the band shown in Figure 4 is a partial elevation of the band part of the collar after edge-folding, the face of the part shown being that covered and concealed in use by the top;

Figures 5 and 6 are enlarged elevations of one end of the top shown in Fig. 2, respectively before and after creasing;

Figure 7 a view similar to 5 and 6 of the top after edge-folding and stitching;

Figure 8 is a partial elevation of the principal blanks assembled in face-to-facc engagement and bound together;

Figure 9 is an enlarged sectional view on the line 99 on the Fig. 8;

Figure 10 is a fragmentary elevation of the inner or concealed faces of the united parts of the collar showing the top flattened into the plane of the band and the uniting seam folded over upon the band part;

Figure ll is a view similar to Fig. 10 showing a facing stitched to the tab end of the band portion and the lower edge of the hand completed;

Figure 12 is an ele ation similar to Fig. 11 showing the bound joint stitched to the band portion of the collar, the button holes made and the collar completed; and

Figure 13 is a section substantially on the line 13- 13 of Fig. 12 showing the collar folded along the line of the uniting seam.

Referring now to the drawings. the principal blanks it for the top and ii) for the band may be cut from a sheet, sheets or laminated sheet of suitable fabric, preferably a woven textile fabric thick and heavy enough to provide the desired stiffness in one thickness. For economy, the hand part 15 may be made of coarser or less expensive material than top part 14, which can be of any texture preferred for good appearance; but the textural surface. weight, degree of stiffness, color and fabric of the collars are variable at the desire of users, and these qualities may be those in vogue or individually preferred by the user. i

The unattached edges of the top part 14 and the lower edge of the band part 15 are suitably finished, as by binding with a strip or tape 16 fastened and by a. single row of ill) lOO

indicated in Fig. '7, and then is folded thebound edge.

of the band being folded over on the same face as indicated at 18. The edge fold is preferably not sewed at this time.

The top blank 14:, Figs. and 6, having been bound, Fig. 5, is creased along the lines and 21, Fig. 6, crossing at the place of the finished corner within and near the rounded bound edge'19, to define a cornerfold at the proper position. The blank is first folded, for example, at the crease 20, as at crease 21, and the folded margins are secured in place by a row of stitching 22.

The parts'of the collar may now be placed faceto-face as indicated in Fig. 8, the edge fold at edge of the band being opened, and the edges 30 and 31 of band and top being in registry. A strip of tape or other binding 23'liaving selvages, or, as shown,

inturn'ed edges 24, is now-applied and sewed. at 25, Figs. 8 and 9, along the unfinished edges 30 and 31 of parts 1% and 15, the binding terminating at 32, Fig; 8, where-it is severed close to the edge of band blank 15. This operation may be by the usual function of a sewing-machine having an over-edge binder guide and adapted to form the stitches 25 at a predetermined distance from The binding 23 may be and preferably is a thin flexible strip, so that the bound joint between band and top, see Fig. 5), is strong without being bulky. This joint encloses a single thickness only of the top and band portionsl l and 15 respectively.

The parts may now be laid out flat by folding the bound joint upon the band 15 along the create 18 of the band 15for1ned by the original edge-folding operation, and the ends may now be finished by attaching an infolded facing piece 26 of thin fabric by a row of stitching 27 to the projecting tabs or ends and adjacent parts of the band 15. Stitching 27 serves to retain in place the folded marginal edge portions of the band covered by it, which have not before been sewed. A second row of stitching 28 is run along the lower portion of the facing and the length of the band to secure the lower edge-fold of the band in place as illustrated in Figs. 11 and 13. 23, etc., may now be secured to the band of the collar, if desired, by a row of stitching 29 extending from one facing 26 to the other, as illustrated in Fig. 13; the button holes '32 made; and the top 1 1- folded along the line defined by the bound joint to the posit-ion illustrated in section in Fig. 13. The bound joint 23, 2 1, 25 being accurately curved and relatively stiff, predetermines the relative position or set of the top when the band is curved and fastened in the position of wear.

A collar made as above recommended is, see Fig. 18, characterized bya fol l-line for the top of the collar of the full'thickness of the material of the top bent over the thin binding 23 only, and related to the original shape of the blanks from which it is assem bled withoutsubstantial. deviation or error. The fold made in the top, being of the full thickness of the material, is sutliciently full for good appearance and not so full as is the case when a. relatively thick top is folded over a seam or edge of thick material. or containing a large number ,of plies. The appearance of this edge is of critical import ance to the appearance of tie collar a whole. It will be observed that the described operations assemble the collar by Legs resulting in fastening down the edge-folds from time to time incident to or durin other operations, such as forming of the bound joint and attachment of the facings, thus reducing the number of manufacturing operations.

I claim:

A fold-over collar having a band, and a top comprised of a. blank having bound edges and rounded corners ov erfolded and fastcned, said edges being infolded on lines crossing within and near the rounded corners, whereby to provide an angled corner-fold, said infolded edges being fastened down along said infolds.

Signed by me at Kitchener, Ontario, this 13th day of November, 1922.

JOHN \VILLIAIYI HESS.

The bound oint V ltll) lOS 

